Honda Accord 2010 Crankshaft Position Sensor Kit

Your 2010 Honda Accord won't start, stalls at red lights, or throws a check engine light and a mechanic (or your own OBD-II scanner) points to the crankshaft position sensor. This small sensor tells your engine's computer exactly where the crankshaft is at any given millisecond, which controls fuel injection timing and ignition spark. When it fails, the engine management system essentially goes blind. If you're looking to buy a crankshaft position sensor kit for a Honda Accord 2010, getting the right part and knowing what's included can save you from repeat repairs, engine misfires, and wasted money.

What comes in a crankshaft position sensor kit for a 2010 Honda Accord?

A typical kit includes the crankshaft position sensor itself, an O-ring or mounting gasket, and sometimes a wiring harness connector or pigtail. Some kits bundle the sensor with a camshaft position sensor since both components share the same circuit on many Honda engines. The 2010 Accord came with either a 2.4L four-cylinder (K24) or a 3.5L V6 (J35), and the sensor location and part number differ between these two engines. Always confirm which engine you have before ordering it's printed on the engine cover and listed on the driver's door jamb sticker.

For the 2.4L engine, the crankshaft position sensor sits near the crankshaft pulley on the lower block. On the 3.5L V6, it mounts on the transmission housing side. A kit that includes the connector pigtail is worth the small extra cost because Honda's factory connectors are known to develop corrosion and broken locking tabs over time.

How do I know if my crankshaft position sensor actually needs replacing?

Common symptoms of a failing crankshaft position sensor on a 2010 Accord include:

Engine cranks but won't start the most frequent sign, especially when the engine is warm
Random stalling while driving, often without warning
Rough idle or misfires under acceleration
Check engine light with codes P0335, P0336, P0339 these directly reference the crankshaft position sensor circuit
Intermittent no-start that resolves after cooling down

One mistake people make is replacing the sensor without testing it first. A crankshaft position sensor can fail and cause the car to die even without triggering a check engine light, which makes diagnosis trickier. Using a multimeter to check resistance across the sensor terminals (the spec for most Honda CKP sensors is 1,500–2,500 ohms at room temperature) can confirm whether the sensor itself is bad before you spend money on a replacement.

What should I look for when choosing a sensor kit?

Not every aftermarket sensor performs the same. Here's what matters:

OEM vs. aftermarket

Honda's OEM crankshaft position sensor (part number 37500-RNA-A01 for the 2.4L, for example) is reliable but costs $60–$90 for just the sensor. Aftermarket options from brands like Denso, SMP (Standard Motor Products), and Hitachi typically run $25–$50 and are solid choices because these companies manufacture OE-equivalent parts. If you want to compare long-term reliability across different brands, this breakdown of crankshaft position sensor brands covers which ones hold up over tens of thousands of miles.

Kit contents vs. sensor-only

A sensor-only purchase is cheaper, but kits that include the O-ring, mounting bolt, and connector pigtail reduce the chance you'll need to make a second parts run mid-repair. For a job that involves working under the car near the oil pan, having everything ready matters.

Fitment verification

Cross-reference the part number against your VIN, not just the year/make/model. Some 2010 Accords built in different months use slightly different sensor revisions. Retailers like RockAuto let you filter by engine and trim level.

Can I replace the crankshaft position sensor myself?

Yes this is a manageable DIY job for someone with basic tools and a jack or ramps. Here's the general process for the 2.4L engine:

Disconnect the negative battery terminal
Raise the front of the car and secure it on jack stands
Locate the sensor on the lower engine block near the crankshaft pulley
Disconnect the electrical connector (press the release tab and pull gently)
Remove the single 10mm mounting bolt
Pull the sensor straight out it may require gentle twisting
Install the new sensor with the included O-ring, torque the bolt to 8–10 ft-lbs
Reconnect the connector until it clicks
Clear the codes with an OBD-II scanner and test-start the engine

The V6 is similar but access can be tighter depending on whether you remove the intake manifold shield. Budget about 30–60 minutes for the four-cylinder and 45–90 minutes for the V6 if you're working on the ground.

What mistakes do people make when buying or installing this part?

Buying for the wrong engine. This is the number one error. The 2.4L and 3.5L sensors are not interchangeable. Double-check your engine code before you buy a crankshaft position sensor kit for your Honda Accord 2010.

Skipping the connector inspection. If the wiring harness connector is corroded or has a broken clip, the new sensor may read erratically or lose contact entirely. Replace the pigtail if there's any visible damage.

Not clearing codes after installation. Some 2010 Accords won't start immediately after sensor replacement if the old fault codes remain stored. A simple OBD-II scanner (even a $20 Bluetooth one) fixes this in seconds.

Over-tightening the mounting bolt. The sensor housing is plastic or aluminum. Snug is enough stripping the threads in the engine block turns a $30 repair into a $300 one.

How much should I expect to pay for the full kit?

Here's a realistic price range as of recent listings:

Aftermarket sensor only: $15–$45
Aftermarket kit with connector and O-ring: $25–$60
OEM Honda sensor: $60–$95
Shop labor (if not DIY): $80–$150 for about one hour of work

Total cost if you DIY with a quality aftermarket kit: under $60. Total at a shop with OEM parts: $180–$250. Either way, it's a far cheaper fix than letting the problem escalate into catalytic converter damage from unburned fuel caused by bad ignition timing.

Will a cheap sensor cause problems down the road?

It can. Low-quality sensors from no-name manufacturers sometimes use inferior magnetic elements that lose sensitivity within months, especially in high-heat environments near the engine block. Stick with recognized brands. A sensor that fails six months later means repeating the same labor, plus the frustration of diagnosing a problem you thought was already fixed.

This is why it pays to choose a reliable sensor kit specific to your 2010 Accord rather than gambling on the cheapest option you can find.

Quick checklist before you buy

☐ Confirm your engine: 2.4L (K24) or 3.5L (J35)
☐ Verify part number against your VIN when possible
☐ Decide on OEM vs. quality aftermarket (Denso, Standard, Hitachi)
☐ Choose a kit that includes the O-ring and connector pigtail
☐ Check the seller's return policy in case of fitment issues
☐ Have an OBD-II scanner ready to clear codes after installation
☐ Inspect the wiring harness connector for corrosion or damage before ordering
☐ Gather basic tools: 10mm socket, jack stands, multimeter (optional but useful)

Next step: Pull your Accord's engine cover, confirm the engine size, cross-reference the sensor part number, and order your kit. If the car is currently undrivable, most auto parts stores offer same-day in-store pickup, and many online retailers ship within one to two business days. Don't let a $30 sensor keep your car sitting in the driveway.